malta sights, attractions and itinerary

Welcome to the Drink in the Sights Malta itinerary. Here we'll guide you through all the best Malta sights and attractions. You'll also find a bit of history thrown so I hope you find this guide useful.

Megalithic Temples, Winter Sun, a Tiny Capital and a Bomb

If you want historic sights, a lively night life, and warm weather all year round, the tiny islands of Malta and Gozo, just 50 miles south of Italy might well be the place for you. These islands along with the much smaller Comino make up the Malta Republic. There's plenty of things to do in Malta and because the island is so small it's east to see all the main Malta attractions and cities in a week or two. 

Given that Comino only has one hotel, and is pretty much uninhabited I think it's best we concentrate on the main two islands. But just to avoid completely ignoring it Comino is the island you'll go passed when you get the ferry to Gozo from Malta, so feel free to wave at it. 

The Malta Republic

The Malta Republic has had a fascinating history dating back around 8000 years, and some of the temples in Gozo date back 5500 years, making them some of the oldest man made structures still in existence. To put this in perspective they are nearly 1000 years older than Stonehenge, or to put them in further perspective, according to studies 4 in 10 Americans believe the earth is less than 10,000 years old, which would make these temples only 4000 years younger than the earth itself!!

Due to the Malta Republics position in the center of the Mediterranean its always had strategic significance, and as a result has been occupied by pretty much every major empire you can think of. These include the Phoenicians, Greeks, Romans, Arabs, French, and almost inevitably the British. We really do get everywhere. In 1964 Malta became independent of Britain, and became a republic in 1974. It's now the smallest member of the European Union, and uses the Euro as its currency.

Malta is perhaps most famous for its knights, in particular the Knights Templar and Hospitaller, who for a time were considered the greatest fighting force in Christendom.  When the two orders were on the same side they were certainly a force to be reckoned with. Sadly as the Hospitaller's were Augustinian and the Templar Benedictine the relationship was always going to end in tears, and sure enough they eventually turned on each other. 

The Templar became bankers, which annoyed the nobility as they wanted to be the only people with money, and sure enough in 1312 the order was shutdown. Meanwhile the Hospitaller's are still around today in the much less violent, but to my mind still just as knightly Order of St John, better known as St John's Ambulance Brigade.

Where to Stay in Malta

I'll start by saying you could stay in Gozo, but don't. Malta is the bigger island, the one with the capital, and has the most to do. I guess if you aren't planning on seeing most the Malta sights, and want somewhere quiet to relax Gozo would be fine, but if you want to see everything you'd end up getting on the ferry to Malta most days. 

While Valletta is the beautiful capital of Malta, and you'll certainly want to visit, it's not where I'd recommend staying. I'd recommend St Julian's. It's not the prettiest, and it doesn't have the most sights to see, but it's where all the bars and nightlife are. It's much easier to get a 2 euro bus to other cities to see the sights in the day than it is to get a taxi back to the likes of Valletta at night. ​

Before we talk about the Malta attractions we have to get you there. Virtually every airport in the UK flies to Malta so you really wont struggle to find affordable flights. The cheapest way to get from Malta airport is the bus which only costs 2 euros, but takes 65 minutes. The bus goes all over the island stopping at pretty much every possible opportunity, which is why you might want to consider getting a transfer or shuttle bus from ShuttleDirect. This will only take about 15 minutes to get you to your hotel. Now we've got you there lets go drink in the Malta sights.

Malta Sights

Visit Mdina The Old City

It's probably a controversial start to suggest you should start a Malta itinerary anywhere other than the capital Valletta, but here we are. To get to Mdina take the bus to Rabat stop 3 from either Valletta or St Julian's, it'll only cost 2 euros. Mdina was the capital of Malta from its founding over 4000 years ago through to 1530, and it's absolutely gorgeous. 

Exactly how Mdina isn't on the UNESCO World Heritage Site list is absolutely baffling when you consider just about everywhere seems to be covered these days. With a population of less than 300 people, and having banned all but essential cars Mdina is nicknamed the silent city, but what a city.

It's one of very few fully walled cities left in Europe, which makes the whole place feel like a proper medieval castle. The castle feel is only amplified by the glorious entrance, which doubles as the doorway to Kings Landing in Game of Thrones. Walking over the stone bridge to the gate makes it abundantly clear you're about to enter somewhere very special. 

The thin paths are lit by lanterns, ​and the complete lack of cars and motorbikes makes it a wonderfully peaceful area to wonder around. Despite occupying a space of less than half a square mile it's surprisingly easy to get lost in the picture perfect streets. 

There's also a couple of pleasant bars/restaurants looking out over the old walls which give great views over the surrounding countryside. I genuinely think that this would be my dream retirement destination, but with house prices starting at around the £750,000 mark it feels like a bit of a pipe dream. Mdina just has to top any Malta itinerary so take your time to stroll around and drink in the Malta sights.

Metropolitan Cathedral of Saint Paul

As we're starting in Mdina we can't leave without visiting this gorgeous Baroque cathedral. Originally built in the 12th century, and rebuilt in the early 18th, the cathedral is a thing of beauty. Dedicated to St Paul who was shipwrecked in Malta and stayed in Mdina, and who could blame him? While I recommend staying in St Julian's these days I'd imagine the old capital was very much the centre of Maltese life at the time St Paul was there.

As with most Baroque cathedrals the interior is absolutely lavish, covered in artwork and sculptures. The artwork inside the dome is particularly appealing, while the whole ceiling is covered in fresco's depicting the life of St Paul, and is worthy of any church or art gallery. The floor is covered in tombstones and wonderful marble slabs commemorating the dead. This really is one of the top Malta attractions.

Mosta Dome

As the Mdina bus ticket allows you two hours travel you can jump off for 30 minutes outside Mosta Parish Church or Mosta Dome. This huge Neoclassical domed church looks a lot like most churches in Malta and Gozo from the outside. So much so that me and my friends started dome watch, where we eventually lost count of the sheer amount of domed churches we saw. We just needed something to amuse us on the bus rides. Anyway the interior is nice enough, but really you get off here for just one reason.

In April 1942 the Germans dropped 3 bombs on the church, 2 deflected off the roof and the third came straight though, landing in the middle of a 300 strong congregation. For one reason or another the bomb didn't go off, and no-one was hurt. This is seen as a miracle, and in fairness it is miraculous. Personally though I can't help but think if God was going to intervene in the war this was the very least he could have done. Anyway apparently he works in mysterious ways. The unexploded bomb is still in the church today, and I'm assured it wont go off anytime soon, so go have a look. This really is one of the top Malta attractions.

Malta Attractions

Visit Valletta

Unlike Mdina Valletta is a UNESCO heritage site, but just like Mdina it's beautiful, and it's tiny. Valletta is the smallest capital city in Europe, and just to highlight this point when we went we could only find one pub, it was called The Pub, and it's where Oliver Reed died while having a drink during the filming of Gladiator. For a lot of people visiting Valletta tops their list of things to do in Malta and it's easy to see why. 

Valletta was built in the sixteenth century by the Knights Hospitaller, who would become the Order of St John, and eventually St Johns Ambulance led by Jean De Valette. No prizes for guessing where the name Valletta comes from!!! The city is the political, economic and social hub of Malta, and if you don't plan on drinking much during your stay it's the obvious place to book your hotel. There's certainly a full day or two worth of activities here and the whole city is one of the great Malta sights.

St Johns Co-Cathedral

Before you ask this is a co-cathedral because it shares the bishops seat with the cathedral in Mdina. What I don't know is why that one is just called a cathedral, but this one is a co-cathedral, I assume it's because the Mdina one came first, but feel free to correct me. But anyway St John's is dedicated to St John the Baptist, and despite the rather plain exterior the Baroque interior is an absolutely lavish sea of gold.

The whole interior just sparkles, and there's art work and statues galore. The most famous work in the cathedral is The Beheading of John the Baptist by Caravaggio, which I guess is in the right place. It's a good job there's some notable art and a lot of finery, as the entrance fee of 10 euros for a relatively small cathedral is a little on the extortionate side. If you like gold this really will be one of the top Malta attractions for you.

The Knights Hospitallers Museum

This magnificent museum is housed in the original Knights Hospitallers hospital, and is a real throwback to medieval times.  Don't expect this to be a huge museum you're going to spend hours in, and don't expect a huge amount of finery. This is very much an historically accurate walk through the past, with a very knowledgeable guide, which is about all you can ask for for 5 euros. You really can't have a Malta itinerary that doesn't talk about the Knights Hospitallers. 

Upper Barrakka Gardens

These beautiful public gardens provide a tranquil atmosphere in an otherwise pretty busy city. From here you'll get the best views out over the harbour, sadly I went on just about the only rainy day of the year so my photos don't really do it justice. The area has plenty of statues, including one of Winston Churchill among other notable dignitaries. The gardens are worth a visit, I just hope you have more luck with the weather.

Three Cities

Not far from Valletta you'll find the Three Cities of Birgu, Conspicua and Senglea. They are three more small fortified cities which are well worth a visit. From Valletta you can take the 1,2,3 or 4 bus to the cities. Birgu is the oldest and most impressive of the three, and it's the city which replaced Mdina as the capital of Malta in the 16th century. As they are all by the harbour you'll get great views of Valletta. There's just something about walled/fortress cities that I can't help but love. They are beautiful, but also practical, and you wouldn't fancy your chances invading any of them.

Malta Itinerary Extras

Gozo

The ferry from Malta to Gozo costs less than 5 euros for the return trip, so it's well worth spending a day on this beautiful and historic island, even if one of the main Malta attractions isn't there anymore.

Ggantija Megalithic Temples

As beautiful and old as many of the cities of Malta are they aren't even close to the age of these magnificent temples, the oldest in Europe, and over 1000 years older than the pyramids of Egypt. Sure these are somewhat more modest in scale than their Egyptian counterparts, but anyone with an interest in ancient history is going to want to pay them a visit. To gain entrance to the site you'll have to pay 9 euros, but Stonehenge costs £19 so these are cheap at twice the price. Anything this ancient has to top a Malta itinerary.

The Citadel

For all the talk of magnificent walled cities on this page you still can't beat a proper castle, and the one in Gozo is spectacular. Located in the town of Victoria the Citadel, or Cittadella, houses the Cathedral of the Assumption, and the views from it's walls are incredible. While there have been settlements on the site since the stone age the castle only really took shape in the 13th century. Like most of The Republic of Malta the Citadel has housed the Knights Hospitaller, the French and the British.

The Citadel has been recently, and lovingly restored to its former glory. A particularly nice touch is that you can still walk through the old underground tunnels used in World War II. As with most castles though the real treat isn't what's inside, it's the views you get from the elevated position they occupy, and the Citadel is no exception. The views alone make the 5 euro entrance fee an absolute bargain. so sit back and drink in the Malta sights.

Cathedral of the Assumption

Located in the Citadel this Baroque cathedral is worth a quick visit. It's relatively understated by the usual Baroque levels of lavishness, and the entrance fee is included in the price of the citadel. The marble tombstones in the floor are a nice touch, and I do enjoy a good painted ceiling. Given that this is a freebie it would have been rude not to put it in a Malta itinerary.

The Azure Window

Sadly this beautiful rock formation collapsed in 2017, so this is a bit of a look what you could have seen if you'd visited earlier. That said though the area of beach the Azure Window used to occupy is still one of the best sights on the island. If you go to Gozo in the winter you'll still be able to get the ferry back to Malta after capturing this gorgeous island at sunset. This really was one of the top sights in Malta before it collapsed, but for me the beach is still a great place to drink in the Malta sights.

Thanks for reading my Malta itinerary. I hope you found it useful. Now you know the best Malta sights and attractions it's time to go see them yourself. You can book your Malta trip through the Expedia link below feel free to message me on Facebook Messenger or via my Travel Advice page. Please also check out our guides to the best pubs in Valletta and the best bars in St Julian's.